Mojave National Preserve
- Shanghai Brown
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- Jan 31, 2017
- 6 min read
Mojave National Preserve
Not far from Twentynine Palms you can find a vast 1.6 million acre desert wonderland filled with Joshua tree forests, “singing” sand dunes, volcanic cinder cones and lava flows, dramatic mountains, lonely canyons, long forgotten mines and homesteads, long trains snaking across the distance, and a historic road leading westward across the sands.
The Mojave National Preserve (the difference between a national park and preserve is that hunting is allowed in preserves), provides an incredible variety of desert experiences for day trips or longer. Camping is available across the preserve but buy your provisions and gas up in Twentynine Palms as there are no concessions within the preserve.
If you are planning a trip to Las Vegas, taking Route 62 and then heading north through the Mojave National Preserve provides a beautiful and relaxing alternative to sitting in traffic on Interstate 15.
Keep in mind there are no services within the Mojave National Preserve - no gas, no food, no lodging. You should be able to refill water bottles at Kelso Depot or Hole in the Wall Visitor Center, but that's about it. If you're driving from the Joshua Tree area, fill up and round up supplies in Twentynine Palms before heading north. You can (usually) pick up snacks, cold drinks, and expensive emergency gas in Amboy (on Route 66) on the way, but it is not wise to rely on this option.
There are limited camping options within the preserve at Mid Hills, Hole in the Wall, and Black Canyon Group Camp. For information on camping, click HERE.
To the southwest of the preserve, off of Interstate 40, Ludlow offers a couple of gas and food options, while to the north of the preserve, on Interstate 15, Baker offers gas and a variety of somewhat questionable food options, mostly for the benefit of Vegas-bound LA folks on the freeway.
Everytime we go to Baker, it reminds us of Star Wars when Obi-wan Kenobi and Luke Skywalker are looking over Mos Eisley, and Obi-wan explains, "You will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy." Baker has that kind of charm (we love it - and you can get Alien Jerky there!). Baker is also a good stop when heading even farther north to Death Valley. For a totally cheesed-out Baker dining experience, stop at the Mad Greek, malaka. And don't forget to check out the giant thermometer in town! Fun stuff!
Things to Do
Kelso Depot Visitor Center A good place to begin your visit to the Mojave National Preserve is at the Kelso Depot Visitor Center. This historic railroad depot now houses exhibits, an art gallery, bookstore, and an orientation film. Rangers can help you plan your trip and provide information on hikes, road conditions, and camping options. Water and restrooms are available, and picnic facilities are located where you can enjoy a view of the Providence Mountains and passing trains. Ranger-led programs are available.
Mitchell Caverns
While part of the Providence Mountains State Recreation Area located within the boundaries of the Mojave National Preserve, Mitchell Caverns has reopened after a lengthy closure, with new improved cavern lighting. This remote desert attraction is worth the effort needed to get to it. Awesome mountain views, great hiking trails, and, of course, an interesting fun tour through limestone caverns. But read up before you go, because it's a long way to go to miss the tour! Check HERE for updated information on Providence Mountains State Recreation Area and Mitchell Caverns.
Kelso Dunes - The "Singing" Dunes The Kelso Dunes have some of the highest sand dunes in the region. The dunes reach up to 600 feet high and extend into the Devil’s Playground. Created over the last 25,000 years, the dunes cover a 45 square mile area and are known for their “singing” sounds. Run down a dune slope (not on the vegetation) and when the sand slides down the steep slope, listen for a booming or singing sound. Watch the sunset over the Devil’s Playground from the top of a dune, or take a full moon hike (ask the rangers for more information).
Cima Dome & Cinder Cones National Natural Landmark Within the Mojave National Preserve you can see a number of red and black cinder cones and lava flows. Cima Dome and 31 other volcanic cinder cones dot the landscape along Kelbaker Road north of the Kelso Depot. Eruptions began about 7.6 million years ago and continued until at least 10,000 years ago, near the end of the most recent ice age. If you have a 4WD high clearance vehicle, Aiken Mine Road makes for an interesting side trip and provides access to a lava tube cave. The cave is not maintained by the National Park Service, so visitors explore it at their own risk.
Mojave Cross
Old desert prospector John Riley Bembry never could shake the experiences he had while serving as a medic in World War I. In 1934, Bembry erected a simple cross out in the Mojave Desert in memory of those who died in the Great War. The cross became a landmark for the rural community that was spread thinly across this part of the desert. There were potluck dinners and, of course, Easter sunrise services. The local community maintained it and Henry Sandoz, a resident who knew Bembry, made a promise to the old prospector that he would care for the cross after Bembry died.
And Henry did, with no major problems. That is, until a diehard atheist came across the remote cross after the Mojave National Preserve had been created, and decided it was an unconstitutional endorsement of a religion by the federal government. Never mind its history, its importance to the community, or anything else - it had to go.
But anybody who knew Henry Sandoz knows if Henry made a promise, he aimed to keep it. The atheist got the ACLU, the cross got Henry. The ACLU never stood a chance. Especially when his wife, Wanda, got involved. They, in turn, got the Veterans of Foreign Wars (VFW) and other veterans organizations involved, along with the occasional congressman.
The National Park Service, while trying to get along somewhere in the middle of all of this mess, covered up the cross (see photos) to remove the offending religious symbol from public view while the battle over the cross went on - to the Supreme Court.
Writing for the majority decision, Justice Anthony Kennedy wrote, "The goal of avoiding governmental endorsement [of religion] does not require eradication of all religious symbols in the public realm." Eventually, after the cross was cut down and stolen from Sunrise Rock in a convoluted desert whodunit, a land exchange was conducted (Henry and Wanda provided the land to make the exchange possible), the cross was found in Half Moon Bay (don't ask), and in 2012, the cross was rededicated by Henry Sandoz.
If you pass by or stop to visit the Mojave Cross, say a little prayer for Bembry and all the WWI veterans who found solace and recuperation from their wounds (physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual) in the Mojave, and whisper a little word of thanks to Henry and Wanda. Truer friends Bembry could never have found.
Teutonia Peak Trail Off Cima Road you can take a three mile round trip hike on the Teutonia Peak Trail. This trail provides views of Cima Dome, cinder cones and lava flows, as well as the world’s largest and densest Joshua tree forest.
Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center Visitors here can take the 1.5 mile Rings Loop Trail up Banshee Canyon, and the half-mile Hole-in-the-Wall Nature Trail, an easy introduction to desert plants.
Zzyzx/Soda Springs Visit this historic 1940s health resort (the Desert Studies Center continues to host classes here), Lake Tuendae, and Soda Dry Lake. If classes are in session, please do not disturb participants.
Mojave Road Visitors who have 4WD vehicles may want to consider driving the section of the Mojave Road within the preserve. Overall, the preserve offers more than 1,000 miles of dirt roads to explore.
WARNING Roads within the Mojave National Preserve are in poor condition, though there are plans to repair them. Speed limits have been reduced in many places to 45 mph due to the potential for damage to vehicles. Use caution. Repairs have been made, but there is still work to be done.
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